Hope at the interview

Hope responded to a classified ad I placed on a popular free classified website. I had posted ads once or twice a week for the previous few weeks. The ads stay up for a couple of months, so there were about ten ads up. Hope responded to all ten, so I assumed she was probably hitting all of the ads she could find, what I call shot gunning. A model appearing uncommitted can be a yellow flag, so I needed to determine how deep her interest was. I responded quickly to Hope, knowing she was eager to get started and might soon be busy with other photographers. Here is the e-mail she sent me:
“Hi, I am interested in being the nude model for your photography. I am an artist myself and have painted some nude portraits so I understand. I would like to meet beforehand and maybe know a little about you before. I will attach one or two photographs of myself in semi-nude to see if I might be what you are looking for. I will check my email often for a reply. Thanks, Hope”

As it occasionally happens, Hope’s photos were not large or clear enough for me to determine her suitability for my projects. It was obvious that she had some attractive features, and the photos she sent me were unusually creative in their lighting and poses. This was substantially encouraging. Nevertheless, I still had some questions about her appearance that were difficult to answer via an e-mail exchange. From the small, dim shots, I could not see if her skin was smooth or if her muscles were toned. I was also concerned about her apparent shotgun approach. I decided an in-person interview would solve these uncertainties, as well as verify her interest and commitment. My reply to her first e-mail read, “Hello, Hope. I like what I see. I’m pretty flexible with time this weekend. If you send me your number and tell me when you’re available, we should be able to do something.”

I called her, and we agreed to meet at a coffee shop that was convenient for both of us. Hope was on time to the meeting and lively when she got there. She was, in fact, easily identifiable as the most attractive woman in the shop. On that note, I typically do not worry about how I am going to spot a model at our first meeting; if I cannot find her in a crowd, she’s probably not what I’m looking for. I introduced myself to her while she was standing in line. I bought coffee for both of us, and we sat. Hope reiterated that she was an artist, and concerning nudes, she said, “I get it.” She was emphatic, and I could sense she had zero qualms about creating images with me. After a few minutes, I suggested we step outside to see how well things worked with her, my camera, and me. We walked into the parking lot, and I retrieved my camera from my car and snapped a few quick shots, one of which appears on this page.

I did two shoots with Hope before she unfortunately had to move four hours away. For months, we did not do any shoots. I kept in touch with her through Facebook and we have continued to work together. I have traveled up to work with her over a weekend and she has come to me on occasion. When visiting her, we traveled to some of her mountain haunts, including some amazing waterfalls. She has posed with classic cars and at an abandoned Buddhist monastery. Hope is good at making a single prop work, whether it is a rope, chain, scarf, or bottle filled with water. I have photographed Hope at least eight times, each with spectacular results.

More about Hope and additional recruiting diaries appear in my book Up to My Eyeballs in Nude Women.

Recruiting Tip #4

Experienced models know the importance of communication. When doing a nude shoot, there are a lot of questions that can come up. It’s important to get these questions answered before the shoot is booked. Less experienced models are not going to know what questions to ask. When recruiting a less experienced or inexperienced model, you need to use your expertise to help educate them. Make sure you explain what kinds of poses you expect. This needs to be established before the two of you agree that you’re going to do a photo shoot. When it comes to recruiting nude models, images communicate better than words. A well planned and executed portfolio is the core of your communication.

Here is the general advice that I give models to prepare for a shoot. I’m posting it here in since it may be helpful to other models and photographers. It is in chronological order from about a week before the shoot. Models should read the whole list before beginning the schedule because the order of some steps will vary based on particular situations.

7 Days before the Shoot

• Confirm all details of the shoot and ask questions. Don’t be afraid to call and ask for clarification.
• Know what makeup (if any) you are expected to do before arriving to the shoot.
• Don’t experiment with hair or skin treatments. There’s not enough time to recover from a mishap.
• Don’t change your hair style unless requested.
• Cut back on tanning, this can dry skin. Use sun screen.

3 Days before the shoot

• Do your nails. Unless you’ve discussed otherwise, I suggest trim nails with a neutral color (e.g. French manicure).
  Take care of your skin. Avoid sun exposure, tanning salons. Avoid getting paint, ink or bruises on your skin. Stay moisturized.

2 Days before the shoot

• Get some moderate exercise.
• Get rid of any unwanted hair in your normal fashion. Do this more than two days before the shoot if it normally takes you longer to recover. Don’t experiment with a new method; you won’t know the recovery time.
• Exfoliate dry skin, don’t forget your feet.
• Exfoliate lips if needed.
• If this is your first nude shoot get a restful sleep tonight. You may be too excited the night before the shoot to get enough rest.

The day before the shoot

• Day before the shoot:
• Pack your kit. Bring moisturizer, a snack, makeup, robe/cover-up. (see my post: Nude Model’s Survival Kit)
• Avoid excessive caffeine or alcohol. Eat sensibly.
• Stretch. Stay limber. Stay active enough to burn off any excess energy before bedtime, but don’t do any marathon workouts today. Stay hydrated.
• Get a full night’s rest if you can.

The day of the shoot

• Wake up early enough that you don’t feel rushed.
• If you’ve been asked to have your hair and makeup a certain way, allow preparation time.
• Don’t put on any tight clothes or anything with elastic in it. We want to avoid elastic lines on your skin.
• Don’t tie your hair tightly, that can also leave a mark.
• Avoid anything that will stain your teeth: tea, coffee, cigarettes; they all show up on the image.
• Moisturize everywhere from the neck down. You don’t want anything close to dry skin.
• Directions to the shoot: Don’t forget to bring them with you. Call if you’re lost, don’t be embarrassed, just call and ask. If you’re going to be late or can’t make it, call ASAP. Don’t be a no-show without calling.
• Once at the shoot keep cell phone use to a minimum.
• Be friendly and professional

After and between shoots

• Take care of skin. Bug bites and tan lines can last a long time. A model’s body is her income, protect it.
• Eat healthy foods. Stay away from sweets, fatty meats, and junk food.
• Exercise vigorously five days a week. Perform a mix of strength, flexibility, endurance, and fat burning exercises.
• Practice posing and posture.

Nude with red cloth. Model: Audrey Rose.

It’s Not Fair

I’ve heard many times, “It’s not fair,” in comment on how some nude models get lots of work while others do not. Often it is the aspiring model, having trouble finding work, who is commenting.

Nude modeling is not supposed to be egalitarian or documentary. Whether the decision maker is the photographer, an art director, or a publisher there is no obligation to take all applicants. Just as with any employment there will always be more applicants than open positions. Even qualified applicants will be turned away.

No, It’s Not Fair, and It’s Not Supposed to Be

Too tall, too short, too heavy, too thin, too male, too female, and any number of other reasons prevent a prospective model from getting the part. There is a misconception among some that if they try hard enough, they can get any part. While I encourage aspiring models not to give up, you have to find your niche. While you’re trying to find your niche you have to be realistic. It may take a long time and you may face a lot of rejection.

Certainly there are those who will accept just about any applicant for their projects. These entry-level projects are a fine way to start, provided they are legitimate opportunities. Most everyone has to start at the bottom and work their way up. It’s one of the few “fair” things about any industry. But most models want to get to the next level. Many expect to be injected right at the top from the very beginning. It’s simply not going to happen.

Meeting the Minimum Requirement is Seldom Enough

Make sure you read the requirements for any casting call. If it says minimum height is 5’6″ and you’re 5’5″ and three quarters, don’t get your hopes up. Even applicants who are 5’7″ are going up against those who are 5’10″. If height is stressed in the casting, they are probably looking for long legs. Unless you are “tall for your height” (leggy), you will still not be the most qualified even if you meet the minimum requirements.

Not every genre of modeling is going to be for you either. No photographer is obligated to shoot in multiple styles or a even a single traditional style. Just because your look is perfect for a popular style of nude photography doesn’t mean you’re a shoe-in for every job.

I had one model write to me “I don’t have the face for fashion or glamour, which is why I am perfect for nudes.” While this makes sense for some genres of nude photography, again it’s not a guarantee of employment. The majority of nude photography de-emphasizes the face to some degree simply by the inclusion of the body. But the degree to which the face is important varies from style to style. There may be more options for an aesthetically pleasing nude without the face than in other types of photography. However, not having the face for glamour doesn’t mean you’re perfect for nudes. (Side note: I did not find the model in question unattractive. I’m not saying who she is, but I photographed her and thought her face was one of the more interesting things about the images.)

Don’t Be Discouraged

If you are an aspiring model, don’t give up after a few rejections. It’s not fair, but you’re not being singled out. I’ve rejected models that were too thin, too busty, too tall, and other reasons that you might think would give them an advantage. The fact is, like other photographers, I’m looking for something in particular for each shoot. You won’t know what that is until you ask us. And like most employment applications, you’re more likely not to get the job than to get it.

I’ve had some models contact me twenty times without being awarded a shoot. I’ve even referred some overly persistent models to other photographers (admittedly with the selfish purpose of getting them off my back.) But other models have contacted me multiple times and only found work on the third or fourth contact.

Persistence will help you. Broaden your horizons and look for different types of castings, especially those where you fit in the middle or high end of the requirements. If they want someone 5’4″ or taller and you’re 5’6″, go for it. If they ask for few tattoos and you have zero, don’t forget to mention that. If they want comfort with implied nude and you’ve experience with full nudity, let them know when you apply. Look for those opportunities where you have an unfair advantage.

Sarah H. is a wonderful and experienced nude model, who applied a few times before I had a project for which she was suited. I’ve now shot with her several times.