Archive for the ‘Lighting’ Category

Outdoor Shot Overlooking Albuquerque

I recently drove from coast to coast. Along the way, I stopped to make some photographs. Here is one. The model, Jacqueline Faith, is standing on a bluff overlooking the city of Albuquerque. The second image shows where I have placed an accent light. It was around freezing and I had a running car a few feet away from her for quick refuge. This location is a half-mile or so off-road. At one point a survey crew passed us in a pickup truck. They may have wondered what we were doing or how I got my sedan out there.

Shot at f/16 and 1/160 second to balance with natural light. Flash is an Paul C. Buff Einstein powered by a Vagabond Mini battery. I had a Zeus Bi-tube with me but the Einstein (640W) was sufficient and less trouble to set up. Who says small flashes can’t be effective? I was also unsure what the effects would have been of the freezing cold on the higher-powered flash tubes. Trigger was a wireless Elinchome Sky Port.

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Daylight versus Studio Lighting

Photographers go to great lengths to create natural look skin tones, shadows, and a soft pleasing light that mimics what we are accustomed to seeing. It requires large lighting modifiers and color-corrected flash tubes to generate the quality of light that the sun and sky provide. Painstaking effort is required to get the angle of the light correct, and the right ratio of fill light without making the shadows look peculiar.

Some of the most beautiful figure photographs are captured in nature. However, this is balanced by the lack of predictable results.

I encourage all figure photographers to experiment with both studio lighting and daylight. Make an effort to become proficient at both. Even if you end up having a favorite, as most do, you will add variety to your portfolio and strengthen your overall photographic problem solving skills.

The Advantages of Daylight

  • Inexpensive
  • Broad, natural-looking light produces expected results, a single catch light

The Disadvantage of Daylight

  • Unpredictable; lighting conditions can change, weather can become inclimate
  • Difficult to achieve privacy, and therefor comfort for the model
  • Time of day and time of year dictate when, what, and how you can shoot
  • Most off the effort of shooting involves getting there, getting the right light, and looking for the right background

The Advantages of Studio Lighting

  • Easy to control lights
  • Predictable, repeatable results
  • Private, distraction-free environment, allows you to concentrate on the subject

The Disadvantage of Studio Lighting

  • Expensive to duplicate the power and quality of daylight
  • Requires setup of background, light stands, lighting equipment
  • May be difficult to find diffusion modifiers (soft-boxes, umbrellas, umbrella-boxes) that are large enough for a full-length subject
  • Lack of variety when compared to location shooting

 

A Daylight Image

A Daylight Image

Studio Lighting

Studio Lighting

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The Handheld Light Meter is Dead, Isn’t it?

Why would anyone waste money on a light meter? It is a fair assessment that most photographers, including very serious ones, can get by without an external light meter. When I say external, it is to differentiate between a handheld meter and the one in your camera.

I seldom rely on a handheld light meter, especially in my studio. However, I still use a light meter in unfamiliar situations. My LCD does not tell me how much something is over/under exposed. The preview image on my camera’s LCD does not tell me the value of each small area of the scene I am interested in. Also, the LCD is not going to tell me when my edge lights are ¼ stop brighter than I intended. The LCD gets me close, but in loading the RAW file after a shoot, I sometimes end up with scenes I wished I had metered more carefully. A ¼ stop might not make much difference in most cases, where you can just selectively dodge and burn. But what about the unintended consequences of spot-exposure adjustments in post-processing, such as loss of subtle texture? Suffice to say, you need to be rather nit-picky about your results to worry about such things, and feel the need to meter.

Some people put a thermometer in beer before they drink it. I have often wondered what is wrong with them. Can’t they tell if they like the beer without having to take its temperature first? This may be the way some people view those of us who use a light meter. Why don’t we just look at the three-and-a-half-inch LCD for two seconds to determine if we like what we see? After all, the LCD displays almost a full megapixel of information. And, if we are worried about the fact that the screen image looks differently based on the ambient light, there is always the histogram.

Unfortunately, the histogram only tells you about the scene in aggregate, not what each light is doing. The LCD really is too small to see what highlight or shadow texture in hair or skin is going to look like when the final image goes to print. The light meter helps me to know what each light is doing across the entire scene, not just the net affect for a single pose within the model zone. The truth is, I usually rely on my LCD and some experimentation to get the light right.

For most people, a handheld meter is overkill. If your images are only destined for a web page, few people may even notice the difference, much less care. If you have strong ideas that produce passionate images, then the nuanced trade-offs between a metered work flow and a non-metered workflow may cancel each other out.

But, I do not anticipate getting rid of my meter. I use a light meter when I am trying a new light setup. This is especially useful before the model arrives. If I do not have enough power to blast through the diffusion material on a new softbox, I do not want to waste time hauling out more power packs during shooting time. If I get a new light, new modifier, an extension cable, or anything else that will affect power output, I use my meter to learn what the net effect is. Basically, any time I am at a loss for knowledge, I seek the most detailed information I can find. When it comes to light output, only my handheld meter can give me that.

So, just as I do not check my body temperature every day to make sure it is still a healthy 98.6 F (37 C), I do not need a light meter when I already know approximately what is going on with the light.

So, I am still waiting for the total phase-out of the light meter, especially the spot meter. Is the “spot-histogram” around the corner? That would be a feature I would use.

Maybe I am a dinosaur, clinging to the tools I loved when I shot and developed film and used flash powder to illuminate the scene. Heck, I still own oil paints; everyone knows that oil painting is a useless technology now that we have photography, right?

A light meter was useful in getting the effect I wanted

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Sample Pages from Lights Camera Nude – Studio Lighting Chapter

Sample pages from the book Lights, Camera… Nude! showing the start of the chapter on Studio Lighting. Nine of the 18 lighting setups in the book are studio lighting setups.

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Sample pages from Lights Camera Nude – Accent Lights, Angle of Light

Sample pages from the book Lights, Camera… Nude! showing accent lights, separation lights, and the effect of angle of light. Including examples of back light, kicker, and rim lights.

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Sample pages from Lights Camera Nude: Lighting Concepts Chapter

Sample pages from the book Lights, Camera… Nude , start of the chapter on Lighting Concepts for Nude Photography. This chapter discusses the importance of lighting, contrast ratio, setting up your studio to affect light, metering your lights, how many lights do you need, large close light, accent and separation lights, direction/angle of light, quality of light (hard vs. soft), and lighting equipment.

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Sample pages from Lights Camera Nude: Quick Reference of Lighting Setups

These are sample pages from Lights Camera Nude

Quick Reference of Lighting Setups. There are 18 lighting setups in the book. These pages summarize with descriptions, categories, light kits, heads required, model zone, and what page the diagram can be found on.

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Lauren, ironing in the nude

Model: Lauren

Background paper: thunder grey

Light 1: striplight (17×58”) 300 WS; camera right, slightly behind model

Light 2: 24×24 softbox with grid, camera left, 300 WS

Light 3: 7” reflector, sock, grid; 150 WS, camera left; 9 feet high, behind pointed back and down at model

Light 4: 7” reflector, sock, grid; 150 WS, 3 feet high, behind model, pointed at leg

In the second shot I think the camera angle works better. I also like the angle of her head better. I wanted everything leading you towards the iron (hard to do when there is a beautiful nude to look at.) I think I need to find a larger and more colorful iron to make this shot sufficiently quirky. I also would have liked to have wrapped the cord around the leg a few times to make it a design element where it crosses the leg.

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Preview pages from nude photo book

Here are some preview pages from my book True Confessions of Nude Photography.

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